Installation methods for the wooden floor
Discover in this article all the appropriate ways in which we can install a wooden floor, the specifications for the timber, up to the final installation.
Nailed – Screwed:only used on solid wood floors, with a minimum wood thickness of 18mm.
The floor is nailed or alternatively screwed onto a frame made of pine or fir wooden boards.
The distances between the squares should not exceed 50cm.
The tiles should not be nailed directly to the substrate as sound bridges are created, resulting in our floor producing annoying noises.
Either the tiles must maintain a very low moisture content (below 11 %), so we don't nail them, we leave them floating on the substrate, or special anti-vibration bases must be used and nailed onto these tiles.
At this point we must emphasize that the most appropriate way of connection is with screws and not with dowels, as with the screw we ensure greater precision and stability in the application and do not injure the wood.
Sticky:used on solid and semi-solid wooden floors. The thickness of the timber for the floor should be between 12 and 22 mm.
Our substrate must be smooth, clean and leveled (maximum unevenness of 5 mm in 2 m length).
In the event that the substrate is cement mortar, it should be firm, free of loose parts, and dry (its humidity should not exceed 4%).
We prime the substrate - cement mortar, marble, mosaic, tile - with the corresponding primer and then apply one or two-component polyurethane adhesive to the entire surface.
The glue is the most appropriate way to install wooden floors, as it ensures maximum stability, sound insulation and vibration damping, as the glue acts as a sound-insulating, elastic substrate.
It is not suitable for installing solid wood of long length and width, as it does not adequately respond to the particularly dynamic behaviors developed by boards of this size.
Floating:it is used on semi-massive wooden floors (as long as they meet the corresponding specifications in their fastening) and laminates.
Επάνω στο υπόστρωμα, το οποίο θα πρέπει να είναι λείο και αλφαδιασμένο (μέγιστη ανισοϋψία 5mm στα 2m μήκος), τοποθετούμε την ειδική κυψελοειδή μεμβράνη πάχους 2 εως 5mm (ηχομονωτική, με φίλμ αλουμινίου για φράγμα υδρατμών) ή εναλλακτικά φελλό (2 εως 5mm πάχος), που παρουσιάζει εντυπωσιακές αντικραδασμικές και ηχομονωτικές ιδιότητες.
Then we simply place the floor on top of the membrane, snapping the boards together and making sure to leave an 8-10mm joint from each fixed contact point in the room, so that the floor can contract and expand.
In corridors and rooms longer than 8 meters or between two rooms, an expansion gap should be left, which is covered with a corresponding transition profile.
General instructions and installation tips for the wooden floor
Substrate preparation:όταν το υπόστρωμα δεν πληρεί τις απαιτούμενες προδιαγραφές για κολλητή ή πλωτή τοποθέτηση (μπετόν χωρίς τσιμεντοκονία, ακατάλληλη/ανομοιόμορφη τσιμεντοκονία, δάπεδο με έντονες κλίσεις, κυρτώσεις ή καμπύλες τότε εναλλακτικά εφαρμόζουμε νέα τσιμεντοκονία ή χρησιμοποιούμε αυτοεπιπεδούμενα υλικά στην ήδη υπάρχουσα ή προβαίνουμε στην κατασκευή “ψευδοπατώματος”, δηλαδή κατασκευάζουμε σκελετό από ξυλεία για το πάτωμα (στα πρότυπα του καρφωτού – βιδωτού) και επάνω βιδώνουμε O.S.B, νοβοπάν, κόντρ πλακέ, έτσι ώστε να δημιουργήσουμε την κατάλληλη επιφάνεια υποδοχής για το πάτωμα.
Acclimatization:Allow your floor to adjust to the temperature and humidity of the room where it is to be installed.
While the floor is in its packaging, it should remain in the room for which it is intended for at least 48 hours before installation in the case of laminate, whilefor wooden floorsthe corresponding time is twice as long.
Mounting direction:Always consider the main light source and the main direction from which you will be viewing the floor.
Boards should be placed along this direction and never perpendicular to it.
Another rule to consider is that the lengths of the boards should be placed parallel to the long side of the room and not perpendicular to it.